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Rejuvenating Agents

To date, there has only been four proven rejuvenating agents:

Retinoic acid

Its negative side effects were hypersensitivity to sunlight, burning and irritation and skin desquamation. New agents with less irritation and no photosensitivity were introduced recently.


Alpha Hydroxy Acids (Fruit Acids)

This group of products that penetrates the epidermis, to each the dermis, stimulate the fibroblasts to form new collagen and elastic fibres.  Alfa Hydroxy Acids may irritate, desquamate or burn the skin where patients have a sensitive skin, eczema and areas like the neck and around the eyes. If irritation occurs, stop for a few days, apply a moisturizing cream, and reapply once a day on alternate days.

To facilitate the best penetration of the skin, an acidity (pH) of 3-4 needs to be reached. By using the Crème Classique Soap Free Cleanser the acidity is dropped to the desired level, and the top layer of the epidermis becomes more penetrable.

A High concentration (more than 6%) of the Alfa Hydroxy Acids is needed to get the desired rejuvenating effect.  A tingling feeling is an indication that the nerve endings in the dermis are reached.


Triple alpha hydroxy acids: (Synergistic effect)

Glycolic acid (with its very small molecule) has been clinically proven to have the best penetration of all the Alfa Hydroxy Acids.  Malic Acid and Lactic Acid are two other Alfa Hydroxy Acids that also penetrate and rejuvenate.  However, the combination of these three acids has been proven to have a synergistic effect.


Beta hydroxy acids

Beta Hydroxy Acids, like Salicylic Acid, used by itself or in conjunction with Alfa Hydroxy Acids stimulate exfoliation, improves the appearance of the skin and also strengthens the collagen.

Capability of Hydroxy-Rejuvenating agents and conventional cosmetics:

If any non Hydroxy acid cosmetics like a base, moisturizer, blusher, or eye make up are to be used, apply  these only 5-10 minutes after the Hydroxy rejuvenating agents.  This is to enhance penetration and so that the cosmetics don’t neutralize these agents.

If the skin should burn or irritate, stop using it for a couple of days, or use more Crème Classique Moisturizer or the Crème Classique Cream.